Removing 'Rust Deposits' From The Bodywork

The Problem

Occasionally, rust spots will appear over an area of your body work. This isn't from the Stainless Steel itself of course, but from Mild Steel contaminates / dust particals that have either been kicked up from the road or from near by angle grinding work.
This rust spreads deep into the grain of the stainless so ordinary soapy water and a brio pad won't even touch it.

Tools Needed

You will need the following items :-

• 'Wonder Wheels' Alloy Wheel Cleaner
  To Desolve The Rust (From Halfords)
• 3M Scotchbrite Metal Polisher Pad
  It's The Dark Red 3M Pad, To Remove The Rust (Available From B&Q).

The Procedure

Pour a small amount of the cleaning solution into the cap. Tear off a piece of the Scotchbite pad, dip it in the solution and then apply to the bodywork, You can clean an area quite firmly as the steel is pretty tough, but ONLY move the pad back and forth in the direction of the stainless steels grain. Once you've cleaned the first 1 inch strip, LIFT THE PAD and concentrate on the next strip. Do not be tempted to gradually zig-zag across the surface, because, in the sunlight you won't notice it, but at night when lights are shining on the surface, you'll see all those zig-zags !

Note : The stainless steel surface will turn to a darker colour when the solution is applied, but washing with soapy water right after the cleaning process will shine in up again. You can use this method to 'freshen-up' your whole car, but take care not to get the solution on the facia paintwork or rubber window seals. Remember, follow that grain !

Re-Painting The Front Or Rear Fascia

The Original Paint Specification

A revised paint code reference was specified in the USA DMC Service Bulletin ST-04-2/82, as follows :-

Ditzler Automotive Finishes
Code : DAU33584
Colour : 'Silver Poly'

Ditzler is part of PPG Automotive Coatings.
The bad news is, the original Ditzler DAU paint tints were discontinued and updated to the very similar DBC33584.

A Modern Alternative

The good news is that most good car bodyshops here in the UK have the equipment to match a colour to within 99% of an original colour sample using ICI 'Colour Matching' technology.
ICI Autocolor became part of PPG Industries (Ditzler) in 1998, so it's probably likely that the full range of Ditzler colour schemes are also utilised within the ICI colour matching process. So basically, ICI have more chances of getting the colour right than anyone else. The trick is, being able to match that unique, half matte / half gloss finish.

Compared to the original, my newly finished fascia has slightly more of a matte appearance, but this makes any slight ripples across the fascia top surface, totally invisible. If you are really concerned, you should ask to see a dry sample before it is applied to your fascia.
The two pictures show the comparision of my original 'sun-baked' paintwork and the results after the re-paint. The following ICI paint formulation was used to repaint my front fascia :-

ICI Paint Specifications

UNDERCOAT : Grey Undercoat SG05 (Rev. Date 23/12/2003)
Code        Description                Ratio %   Quantity  Cumulative
P565-888    Hi Build Filler Fast       100.0%    1626.00   1626.00
            Only for use with 2K BCT,
            Aquabase and P471

COLOUR : Main Layer P422-8002B (Rev. Date 16/08/1995)
Code        Description                Ratio %   Quantity  Cumulative
P425-986    H/S Medium Ali             58.1%     579.10    579.10
P425-948    H/S Black                  9.1%      90.60     669.70
P425-900    H/S Super White            1.7%      17.00     686.70
P420-952    Fast Blue                  0.4%      4.00      690.70
P420-930    Blue Lake                  2.3%      22.90     713.60
P420-938    Tone Controller            15.6%     155.50    869.10
P192-5600   Flip Controller            12.8%     127.60    996.70

FINISH : Flat Clear M04 (Rev. Date 17/08/1995)
Code        Description                Ratio %   Quantity  Cumulative
P190-XXXX   Clearcoat                  41.7%     418.50    418.50
P100-2020   Flexible Additive          20.8%     208.80    627.30
P565-554    2K Matting Base            37.5%     376.40    1003.70

For the restoration of my front fascia, the undercoat wasn't needed. The undercoat specification is automatically calculated as part of the matching process, so is included in the details above in the unlikely event that all the original paintwork had been totally removed from the fascia beforehand. The quantity / cumulative values above are based on a single fascia being painted. If you are having both fascias re-painted, then the values will be roughly be twice that amount.

Binnacle & Instrument Cluster Removal

Tools Needed

You will need the following items :-

• 10mm Socket Wrench
  To remove the knee pads.
• 7mm Socket Wrench + Extension Piece
  To remove the binnacle.
• Screwdriver
  Cross-Head' (Phillips) type to remove the instrument cluster from the binnacle.

The Procedure

Remove the two driver's side knee pads with the 10mm socket. (8 nuts in total).

Try to lay flat so that your head is in the drivers side foot-well and use the 7mm socket to remove the four nuts that attach the binnacle to the dashboard. Together with these four nuts are four large washers, so be careful as these may fall and hit you in the face. Because of all the obstructions you may need to use an extension piece on the socket wrench to help reach the two nuts that are closest to the seat. The procedure would be far easier with the drivers seat removed, but where's the fun in that.

Lift upwards on the binnacle, but be careful with the electrical and speedometer connections as you can damage them easily, especially if you are removing the instrument cluster from the binnacle.
Use one of the two knee pads to prop the binnacle up whilst you take a look at all that wiring, etc. (Placed between the steering column and binnacle). The electrical connectors and the speedo cable can be removed easily.

The instrument cluster is held inside the binnacle by four black screws. Remove the screws and carefully pull the instrument cluster out of the binnacle.

To replace everything, follow the above procedure in reverse order.
It may be a good idea to check that the electrical connections and speedo work correctly before fixing the binnacle back onto the dashboard with the 7mm screws and washers.

Electrical Wiring Diagram

Take My Word For It, You'll Definately Need One Of These

If you plan to do any wiring modifications or fixes then it is essential to get a DeLorean Wiring Schematic / Diagram.
The one available from PJ Grady / Zilla is an entire Main DeLorean Schematic with Corrections and Legends incorporated into it.
At a cost of $25 you'll receive a detailed PDF file that can simply be printed in A0 size if you like, also you'll get a Glove box service manual as well to help with common road-side problems.
And if that isn't enough, you'll also be helping Michael J Fox's 'Finding a Cure for Parkinson's Disease' charity, as that $25 goes straight to that charity. So it's worth every penny for two reasons !
John DeLorean Made it, Michael J Fox Made it a Star, Now he Needs Our Support.